Standing before the Kaabah, Islam’s most sacred site, I was surrounded by a sea of worshippers—men and women from different corners of the world—united in devotion. All around, faces glowed with emotion: hands raised in prayer, tears rolling down cheeks, and eyes bright with hope and awe. While some prayed for forgiveness, others sought ease, guidance, or solace for lost love and shattered dreams. Yet every expression reflected awe of Allah’s boundless mercy.
This moment was a living example of unity: people of every background, age, and status, joining together for a single purpose—the worship of Allah, the Creator recognized by over a billion people worldwide, including millions in Nigeria, Ghana, and throughout West Africa.
The journey to this place had deep personal significance. My sister and I had long discussed making the pilgrimage. After our mother’s unexpected passing last December, the trip took on new urgency and meaning. While many are familiar with Hajj—the annual pilgrimage required of all able Muslims—Umrah provides a more flexible path. We secured visas for Umrah, which, unlike the fixed dates of Hajj, can be performed at any time of year.
Umrah, considered a ‘lesser pilgrimage’, still carries great spiritual reward. The process is open year-round, allowing pilgrims to choose a time suited to personal needs or significant occasions—something that appeals to many Nigerians balancing family, career, and community obligations.
Preparation required weeks of planning—sorting out travel logistics, accommodation, and necessary documentation. According to the Saudi Tourism Authority, West Africans now account for a growing share of yearly pilgrims. On 17 March, in the midst of the holy month of Ramadan, we boarded a six-hour flight from Kano to Jeddah. Ramadan, the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, is especially significant: a time of fasting, devotion, and reflection. In 2024, authorities reported record crowds at the Grand Mosque, with over four million worshippers gathered on the 29th of Ramadan alone.
Upon arriving in Jeddah, our group took a five-hour journey by road to Madinah. While I had heard the drive was scenic, sleep overtook me, and I missed the desert landscapes. Once in Madinah, we checked in at the Ohud Plaza Hotel, conveniently located opposite Masjid al-Nabawi, the revered Prophet’s Mosque.
Madinah’s atmosphere is instantly calming. Many visitors, myself included, report feeling a sense of peace and security that is hard to describe—a testimony to the spiritual connection Muslims feel with Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) whose tomb is located here. According to Islamic tradition, Madinah is the city where the Prophet established the first Muslim community and built Masjid al-Nabawi, making it a sacred place for believers everywhere.
At dawn, we hurried to Masjid al-Nabawi for the pre-sunrise Fajr prayer. The scene was breathtaking: crowds overflowed from the mosque onto the pavements, forming rows of worshippers outdoors. On that day, Shaykh Hussain Aal Shiekh led prayers. It was unlike any gathering I’d witnessed before—testament to Madinah’s appeal to pilgrims from Nigeria and beyond.
When the crowds thinned out as the sun rose, I finally entered the mosque. Its beauty left me awestruck: vibrant domes, glimmering marble floors, stained glass windows, and the famous green carpets exceeded my expectations.
The mosque’s doors, adorned with gold-plated woodwork, and the intricately designed columns—featuring brass and gold details—captivated me completely.
Madinah’s spiritual and cultural heritage runs deep. As a first-time visitor, the city’s tranquil ambiance and carefully named streets—many in honour of the Prophet’s family and companions—helped me feel closer to Islamic history. Street vendors offered dishes representing dozens of countries, while bustling shopping centres, gold merchants, and food stalls highlighted the city’s diversity.
According to travel industry reports, Madinah attracts hundreds of thousands of Nigerian and West African pilgrims yearly, making it one of the most popular destinations for spiritual tourism from the region.
For afternoon (Zuhr) prayers, I joined friends Mohammed and Kabiru Kiyawa on a visit to the Prophet Muhammad’s grave. The mosque has scheduled visits for men and women to maintain order, given the huge crowds. Adjacent to the burial site is the Rawdah, a place the Prophet referred to as a ‘Garden of Paradise’—believed to be a blessed spot where prayers are especially accepted. The area is marked by green carpets and managed by officials to allow as many pilgrims as possible to enter, though no one may stay too long.
Lying beside the mosque is Jannat-ul-Baki, the main cemetery where many of the Prophet’s family members, friends, and early Muslim followers are laid to rest, anchoring the city’s significance in Islamic tradition.
Many key moments in the Prophet’s life unfolded in Madinah, so exploring these sites offers living lessons for visitors. We spent the next day touring several historic mosques: Masjid Quba (the first mosque built by the Prophet, now expanded to hold 20,000 worshippers), Masjid al-Qiblatain (where the direction of prayer changed from Jerusalem to Makkah), Masjid Zul Hulaifah (the Miqat, or boundary, for beginning Hajj and Umrah) and others. We were fortunate to join regional and international pilgrims in prayer at these iconic locations.
With Madinah’s spiritual highlights explored, it was time for the next stage: the journey to Makkah, home of the Kaabah. Our group undertook a six-hour bus ride, typical of pilgrim groups from Nigeria and Ghana making this once-in-a-lifetime journey.
Before performing Umrah, every pilgrim enters a spiritual state of purity known as Ihram. In accordance with Islamic law, men wear two simple white cotton cloths—one wrapped around the waist, another draped over the shoulder—while women don modest, loose-fitting garments with headscarves. The uniformity of Ihram erases visible divisions such as wealth, background, or nationality—reminding all of their equality before God.
Arriving in Makkah, one of the most iconic cities in the world, we settled into a hotel just a short distance from the Grand Mosque. Soon, our group gathered to walk to Masjid al-Haram—the enormous mosque encircling the Kaabah.
At last, it was time to perform Umrah. The rituals include: Tawaf (circling the Kaabah seven times), Sa’iy (walking seven times between the hills of Safa and Marwah), and finally, Taqsir (cutting a small amount of hair to symbolize humility and renewal). Throughout each step, pilgrims offer personal prayers (duas) for themselves, their families, and their wider communities.
As we approached the Kaabah, the resonant recitation of the Quran by Sheikh Walid Al Shamsaan filled the mosque—it was during Tahajjud (late-night prayers), adding to the sacredness of the moment.
Standing less than 40 feet from the Kaabah felt surreal. The structure’s glossy black silk covering, highlighted with gold embroidery, gleamed under the clock tower’s green lights. The Kaabah, larger in reality than any photo suggests, represents the focal point of Muslim prayer—a structure every Nigerian Muslim faces five times daily. Experiencing this in person was a spiritual high, one echoed by the millions of pilgrims who come each year.
We prepared ourselves, inhaled deeply, and joined the crowd to begin Tawaf. The diversity of pilgrims was striking—you could see African families, elderly couples supporting each other, friends holding hands, each person carrying a unique story and hope.
This experience of togetherness echoed the reality of our home communities, where family bonds, tradition, and a collective drive for prosperity run deep. Many Nigerians spoke to me about why they saved for years to experience this pilgrimage, describing it as a dream fulfilled and a hope for spiritual renewal.
To support elderly or disabled pilgrims, authorities provide golf carts and wheelchairs. There are designated areas on upper floors so even those unable to move easily can perform their rituals without fear of being overwhelmed by crowds. According to a Lagos-based Islamic affairs analyst, “Saudi Arabia’s improvements in access in recent years have been a game-changer, especially for West African pilgrims traveling with elderly relatives.”
For Nigerian and West African Muslims, the journey of Umrah is as much about personal transformation as it is about religious obligation. It provides an opportunity to reflect on life, relationships, and one’s place in a global community of faith.
How have your travels changed your perspective or spiritual outlook? Whether you’ve made the pilgrimage or dream of doing so, we want to hear your story. What advice would you give to fellow West Africans aspiring to visit these holy sites? Share your thoughts in the comments and connect with others on their own journeys.
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